FASHION MOMENT ; PEPLUMS

Sporty printed peplum at Vera Wang S/S ‘12

My fascination with ruffles started as a fashion student, inspired by the concertina neck ruffs of the Elizabethans, as I sketched the intricate frill of Queen Elizabeth I, Circa 1583 I try to think of a way of incorporating some of it into my designs.  I am transported to another golden age in history 1947 The New Look by Dior which consisted of a short ruffle attached to a waistline, dress, skirt or jacket called a peplum.  After the austerity of  World War II years Dior’s peplumed new look heralded a feeling of hope and optimism and better things to come.

The last prominence of peplums came during the 80’s accompanied by big shouldered designs of Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Muggler.  The 80’s television audience were treated to the peplum craze in prime time soap operas like Dallas, Dynasty and Falcon Crest.

The current revival can be traced back to Jil Sanders 2011 women’s collection and the catwalk of Givenchy  as the main protagonists of showing peplums closely followed by, Celine, Dries Van Noten and Vera Wang, who all showed peplums worn with shorts for spring 2012.  “A peplum is a play on proportion to make the waist look smaller”  said Vera Wang.

Peplums have since been seen worn by the Kate Duchess of Cambridge for official Royal engagements, by Jennifer Anniston on the Red Carpet and Charlize Theron who wore a fitted red peplum dress to present an award at the MTV Movie Awards.

The whole point of the peplum is that it celebrates the waist to hip curve. The classic Dior peplum of 47 was at its most elegant when worn with a pencil skirt, but the hourglass glory can look a bit retro.  Wearing your peplum with shorts or slim legged trousers will immediately modernise the look.

Although the peplum will not make us  look our thinnest be brave as the peplum is about celebrating feminine curves. A fitted peplum will show off an hourglass figure and a flared one will add curves to hips, a perfect choice for boy shaped bodies.

Peplum Top

Transforms a simple jacket by adding drama

Peplum Bottom

A pencil frill will add a feminine touch to a sleek silhouette

Peplum Dress

An adorned dress will look good for the cocktail hour or a long peplum for draping is an elegant look.  A shorter peplum would work well for a younger perkier look.

High street stores like Zara, Dorothy Perkins and Topshop have invested heavily in the peplum. H & M have increased its number of peplum tops for spring “its so on trend” said their chief buyer.

The peplum trend shows no sign of abating as a number of designers have recently showed peplum styles for Autumn/Winter 2012 including coats.  Zac Posen, Jason Wu, Tory Birch.

So be brave and accentuate your womanly curves and you to could look curvaceous in seconds by wearing a peplum. Meanwhile I’m off to Zara and Dorothy Perkins to find peplum tops for my denim shorts at weekends and my black slim leg pants for weekdays in the office.

Maria Henry

11/06/2012