"To be desirable," said Roland Mouret backstage before his show this morning - that was the point of the collection. "The meaning of desire. I want women to feel like they want to steal the clothes from the hanger straight away."
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten offered a collection inspired by Glastonbury meets Midsomer Nights Dream. A soundtrack of birdsong and a spongy, moss-covered runway set a simple pastoral tone that belied the effort that had gone into creating it. The moss was a handwoven tapestry, small feathery puffs of wool evoking an explosion of briar and lichen, assembled by a team of Argentinian artisans in a frenzied four weeks of sewing.
The clothes were constructed of changeling fabrics: glittering jewel tone brocades; striped and embroidered silks in ethnic floral patterns; midnight blue chiffons shot through with metallics. There were loose, black pinstriped silk trousers worn under a striped shirt with a sleeveless silk coat thrown over the top, the silk cut into little blue feathers so it ripples as the model walked. A cropped tube top was paired with black silk Bermuda shorts, a rusty orange and aubergine coloured brocade bomber jacket slung over the shoulders. Van Noten said this was evocative of festival dressing: "it's a girl who loves Glastonbury but also loves nature. She doesn't follow rules, she puts on clothes as she wants."
Choupette Lagerfeld weighs 7lb 11½oz, measures 10in to the shoulder, has fur the colour of baked Alaska and eyes of such a clear shade of sapphire blue that they have inspired both an entire Chanel collection and a range of cosmetics.
She is also living proof that it is impossible to be spoilt to death. This is what Choupette likes: 'Going to visit the pilot in the cockpit' (she is a frequent flyer with her own custom-built luggage by Louis Vuitton and Goyard for when she travels on her owner's PJ - that's a private jet, to you and me); 'Paris, New York, Rome, Dallas, Monte Carlo in winter, Provence in summer; sitting on Karl's desk and throwing his pencils on the floor.' This is what she doesn't like: 'Taking off and landing (I stay in my bag); shrill voices; perfume; opera.'
Choupette, now adorns a capsule collection of bags, purses and small accessories from Karl Lagerfeld's eponymous label - a line that is somewhat more affordable than the wares he designs for Chanel and Fendi.
Prices start at £20 for a pair of glittery socks bearing Monster Choupette's fangs and reach €295 (£230) for a shopper made from saffiano leather. Highlights also include fur keyrings in black, red and blue and a sweateshirt. The range will be available from November from Karl Lagerfeld's website, as well as the brand's UK flagship store at 145 Regent Street.