MARIA'S STYLE PLANET: September 2014

Tuesday 30 September 2014

BACKSTAGE HAIR & BEAUTY LOOKS

Backstage at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Sumer 2015 the hair and makeup looks were pared back, minimal, freash and clean and light as a summers day requires.

Giambattista ValliHair, by Orlando Pita, was styled in low, bed-head-style ponytails.

Giambattista ValliDewy, radiant skin was the focus at Giambattista Valli, where Val Garland added a gloss to the lips and a sheen across cheekbones and lids.

Stella McCartneyPat McGrath gave eyes a wash of barely-there pink at Stella McCartney, while brows were brushed and groomed

Stella McCartneyFor hair, Eugene Souleiman crimped random sections before fastening into a tight ponytail at the nape of the neck.

GivenchyPat McGrath bleached models' brows at Givenchy, adding graphic swoops of taupe across the lids.

Isabel MarantAt Isabel Marant, Lisa Butler used blush to create a healthy glow, applying it over the lids and cheeks for subtle colour.

Christian DiorPeter Philips attached stripes of satin along models' lids in place of eyeliner at Dior, using pastel green, pink, peach and yellow hues. White liner was applied to the bottom waterline, whilst skin was matt.

LanvinAt Lanvin, Pat McGrath created a dewy-skinned look with eyes defined in brown shadow and brows filled in and groomed.

Lanvin Guido Palau fastened hair in low chignons, with a golden comb designed by Alber Elbaz slipped underneath the bun.

Balmain From the front, it was combed with a wide-toothed comb for a raked-back texture.

Rochas The look at Rochas, by Lucia Pieroni, comprised a sheer wash of pale blue shadow across the eyelids, layers of heavy mascara and a dot of liner under each eye.

Rochas For hair, Paul Hanson created side-parted low ponytails.

Anthony Vaccarello Make-up artist Tom Pecheux created black-tipped earlobes at Anthony Vaccarello by covering the bottom of the ears in tape which was then painted black and coated in glitter.

EDDY ANEMIAN COLLECTION FOR H&M

Precision and elegance in winner Eddy Anemian's collection for H&M

H&M Design Award 2014 winner Eddy Anemian has created a highly developed capsule collection, translating his painstaking techniques of cut and construction. To create this special collection, Eddy has worked closely with the H&M design team to capture the elegant mood and precision of his winning designs. The pieces will be available at selected H&M stores, as well as online, from October 23.

“I had such a good experience creating the collection with H&M. They really respected the idea of the collection, translating my couture cutting and sewing techniques. It was like seeing my clothes made real,” says Eddy Anemian.

“Eddy’s winning collection was breathtaking. Everyone at H&M has enjoyed working with Eddy to bring his exceptional work to a wider audience,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Head of Design, New Development H&M.

For his winning collection, inspired by Tilda Swinton’s character in the movie “I Am Love” and the French painter Ingres, Eddy cut floral upholstery fabric into strips, then reconstructed them to create both structure and abstract pattern. This technique has been recreated for Eddy’s collection with H&M, such as in a blue floral jacket with strips that spread out from the neckline, then curve inward over the hips.

A long yellow floral skirt is constructed from vertical strips, while a white skirt is made from horizontal raw-edged ruffles to give the impression of the patterns found in marble. Alongside pieces such as a white jumpsuit with floral sleeves, there’s a black heavy twill top, and a white pair of high-waist pants to provide contrast.
Eddy has just completed his final year at La Cambre, and is now hoping to gain more experience within the fashion industry, before hoping to one day launch a label under his own name.

He is the latest winner of the H&M Design Award, an annual prize launched in 2012 to support and encourage young fashion graduates at the very beginning of their careers. To find out more about the award, please visit hm.com.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=eIM7UcW-Fts#t=0

ORLA KIELY FOR CLARKS

Meet The Dotty. Geeky, quirky and larger than life, she’s walked the runways of London Fashion Week and is one of six irresistible styles that make up our latest collaboration with British designer Orla Kiely.

Clarks womens - Orla Kiely - Orla Daphne

After launching her fashion line in 1997, Orla Kiely's playful and retro designs became favourites of the British fashion set —and our design team at Clarks. After the sell-out success of our S/S collaboration, we've teamed up with the designer again to create a winter collection featuring her signature quirky silhouettes and our famous craftsmanship. Showcased at Orla's London show in February, the shoes got rave reviews. Says Orla: 'I love what Clarks stand for and I have a nostalgic association with them from childhood. To combine fashion and comfort for me is perfect so I was very excited to work with them again.'

The Autumn/winter collection started life on the floor of our design studio. 'Orla came down with a bag of vintage shoes and tipped them out,' says designer Adrienne. From the start, the brief was clear. The shoes had to be retro, but not from a recognisable decade. The shape had to be slim with one blocky heel from low to high. And everything had to have a strap and outsize buckle.

The result: a capsule collection of shoes with big personalities. A little bit 60s, a little bit 70s; part geek chic, part party shoe. All larger than life; all in the sort of delicious colours you'd expect from Orla Kiely. And all beautifully made by Clarks

'When Clarks came to us, we knew we wanted to be true to ourselves.
We have the same philosophies – style, comfort, quality design and British.
We loved the idea of working with a company who could realise our vision with very wearable shoes' ORLA

Clarks womens - Orla Kiely

ORLA KIELY SCRAPBOOK

Clarks womens - Orla Kiely

ORLA ON THE COLLECTION

'One comment people keep making to me is, these are shoes you think about and dream about, but you can't find them in the stores until now!'

'The Chelsea boot, Orla Daphne, is going to be the easiest boot to wear – it's beautifully made. It has quality all over it.'

'The Orla Dixie mid heel style is a great everyday boot. The brogue feature gives it a slightly retro feel.'

'The Orla Dilly shoe works great for day or night. The cut out section makes it contemporary and cool.'

'The flat shoe, Orla Dora, is a great twist on the low-heeled loafer. The 3 button detail is super cute.'

'I love the Orla Dorothy. It’s an easy mid-heeled mary jane with punched hole detailing.'

'I love the Orla Dotty. I love the block heel, the T-bar and the exaggerated broguing. For me, that's the more dressy, going out shoe.'

Orla Kiely Shoes for Clarks are available at Clarks.co.uk

Monday 29 September 2014

EFFIE GRAY

A look at the mysterious relationship between Victorian artist John Ruskin and his teenage bride Euphemia "Effie" Gray. Ruskin's sexual dysfunction and his wife's sexual innocence and inexperience in the repressed atmosphere of Victorian England are further complicated by Effie's affair with pre-Raphaelite painter Sir John Everett Millais after Effie poses for the artist and falls in love with him. Author and art historian Lady Elizabeth Eastlake, Effie's friend and champion, encourages her to seek an annulment from her husband. In order to prove non-consummation of the marriage, Effie is forced to undergo a physical examination that confirms her virginity after five years of marriage to Ruskin. During the trial, which creates a scandal and more discussion than the ongoing Crimean War, a doctor testifies that the plaintiff is a
virgin.

The physical examination and embarrassing courtroom testimony about her intimate life induces a psychosomatic paralysis that lasts 10 days. The judge rules in Effie's favor, citing her husband's "incurable impotency." While her internationally renowned husband continues his busy professional and social life, Effie, a spirited, outgoing woman, is ousted from society and forbidden to attend any event where Queen Victoria is present. Her ostracism is alleviated by her marriage to Millais, with whom she will eventually have eight children.