Wednesday, 2 October 2013
CHANEL PARIS FASHION WEEK S/S 2014
For Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer, Karl Largerfeld took inspiration from the space at Grand Palais the home of art and culture, turning the cavernous room into an art gallery.
The custom-made art works dotted around the space all referenced the codes of the fashion house. Exhibits included a quilted sumo wrestler, a robot made from bottles of Chanel No 5 and ladders made from the chain used on 2.55 bags. Artists referenced included Wassily Kandinsky, Jackson Pollock, Claes Oldenburg and Marcel Duchamp.
This was a cool collection. As may have been predicted by the set, it was inspired by art and, over a lengthy show, the theme was developed. A grey leather dress came with painterly textures while a print that looked like paint swatches covered ribbons of silk on draped fluid dresses. The most overt reference was a male model carrying a canvas and paint brushes.
Lagerfeld's genius when it comes to keeping Chanel relevant has been to weave the codes – tweed, chain, pearls and quilting included – into whatever theme he is currently playing with. The accessories are always talking points. Moving on from the hula hoop bag of last summer, some models wore two bags. This season it's about the backpack, complete with double-C graffiti and charms, and worn with a scowl by Cara Delevingne – as well as friendship bracelets, no doubt very expensive.
Chanel Runway Highlights
THINK PINK
Get ready to shop for a cause. October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and some of our favourite designers and brands have created special items that benefit charities that support breast cancer research, treatment and awareness.
Smythson Keyring £60 mywardrobe.com
Tickled Pink re-‐useable bag designed
Julien Macdonald £2.50 at Asda
Babyliss Hair Straighteners £30 Asda
Rosie Fortescue's Ipad/Iphone case from £30
Bare Minerals Limited Edition Lipgloss £19
LOUIS VUITTON
PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2014
'This collection is dedicated to the women who inspire me and to the showgirl in all of us' stated Marc Jacobs of his swansong show for French luxury goods giant Louis Vuitton which opened the Paris season this morning.
Emmanuelle Alt, Jane Birkin, Betty Catroux, Judy Garland, Miuccia Prada and Vivienne Westwood were all among those namechecked. Jacobs also cited his creative director of womenswear Julie de Libran and show stylist and editor in chief of LOVE magazine, Katie Grand, as inspiration.
A single page in the show notes read, meanwhile: 'To Robert Duffy and Bernard Arnault, all my love, always.' These men are Jacobs' own business partner and the LVMH president respectively.
On a black lacquer catwalk clad in shearling and dominated by retrospective installations - from a black Caroussel to a fountain, and from cast iron lift shafts to a Louis Vuitton clock - the first model came out - or indeed up - in a fishnet catsuit embroidered with black graffiti referencing Jacobs' phenomenally successful collaboration with Stephen Sprouse and a huge feathered head-dress courtesy of Stephen Jones.
'When I look around Paris it isn't the depth of the city that takes my breath away, it's the ornamentation that dazzles,' Jacobs continued and perhaps the most clever thing about this collection was the play between that and real clothes. These suggested everything from street fashion - that denim, perfecto jackets from shrunken to oversized, bombers that read Paris 14, flat black leather boots - to precious vintage shop finds.
'It is not about thinking, it is about feeling... I take pleasure from things for exactly what they are, revelling in the pure adornment of beauty for beauty's sake,' Jacobs concluded. 'Connecting with something on a superficial level is as honest as connecting with it on an intellectual level.'
'This collection is dedicated to the women who inspire me and to the showgirl in all of us' stated Marc Jacobs of his swansong show for French luxury goods giant Louis Vuitton which opened the Paris season this morning.
A single page in the show notes read, meanwhile: 'To Robert Duffy and Bernard Arnault, all my love, always.' These men are Jacobs' own business partner and the LVMH president respectively.
On a black lacquer catwalk clad in shearling and dominated by retrospective installations - from a black Caroussel to a fountain, and from cast iron lift shafts to a Louis Vuitton clock - the first model came out - or indeed up - in a fishnet catsuit embroidered with black graffiti referencing Jacobs' phenomenally successful collaboration with Stephen Sprouse and a huge feathered head-dress courtesy of Stephen Jones.
'When I look around Paris it isn't the depth of the city that takes my breath away, it's the ornamentation that dazzles,' Jacobs continued and perhaps the most clever thing about this collection was the play between that and real clothes. These suggested everything from street fashion - that denim, perfecto jackets from shrunken to oversized, bombers that read Paris 14, flat black leather boots - to precious vintage shop finds.
'It is not about thinking, it is about feeling... I take pleasure from things for exactly what they are, revelling in the pure adornment of beauty for beauty's sake,' Jacobs concluded. 'Connecting with something on a superficial level is as honest as connecting with it on an intellectual level.'